Winter Wool Dress Muslin - Advice Wanted

Today must be muslin day (toile for my British friends) as the lovely Karen blogged about her coat muslin earlier on. I agree 100% with her on the fact that there is nothing flattering about a muslin. I look hideous! But I know muslins are important to ensure a good fit. How frustrating to spend time and money and end up with a badly fit garment. Just take my Winter wool dress, from the gorgeous pattern above. If I had cut my pricey, gorgeous wool flannel what would I do with it? I wouldn't wear it, for sure.

Anyway...I need help! I need your wonderful advice on how to fit this dress and any comments are very helpful.

The dress fits like a glove from the waist down. The length needs taking by about 10 inches but that's easy. I only pinned it roughly for the photos so ignore that.

Onto the dreaded photos. Straight up with arms down you can see some bagginess in the arms.

Hands on hips the bagginess in the arms becomes clear.

Side view shows some more bagginess in the front and somethings terrible wrong at the back.

Back view. Too much fabric.

So as usual for me, the bodice is way too big, even though the measurements in this vintage pattern are smaller than mine. ( I'm a bust 32 and pattern is for bust 30). The sleeves are kimono with gussets under the arms. Disappointingly (but understandable) my pattern making class was cancelled today due to illness as I believe we were going to do kimono sleeves.

My dear readers, any suggestions, recommendations? What do I take out, where and how. Thank you!!

The hour of the muslin!

Before I even say anything else let me share with you all that for some reason that I'm unaware of, I have a deep dislike for the word toile. Not so much writing it but saying it. Silly I know, but that's the reason I always say muslins. I know I'm in the UK and should be saying toile but hopefully none of my UK readers will take offence.
I have done some progress in my sewing and done two muslins. The first was a Colette Beignet skirt. I've cut a size 2 at waist and 0 at hips and the result is perfect. Photos were taken but they are not that interesting and everything fits fine so why bother you with that.
For my second muslin, for which your fitting feedback is more than welcomed, I present you lots of photos:

The Perfect Fit Bombshell Dress from Gertie Sew Retro Craftsy class. The above photo presents a few wrinkles but feels pretty good overall. Length is fine, as it hits the waist.
The next couple of photos show a gap on side seams. Now for me the most, in my face fitting issue is this. I need to take in the side seams, about 3/4" maybe and reducing as I go down. It fits fine at the waist.

The other issue I think I have is a slight drop of bust cups. They fit fine but they drop. Now this might be resolved by taking in the side seams but I am thinking that the real problem solver will be the halter neck strap, which I will use. I don't like strapless dresses or blouses. Now surely that will pull them up, no?

Finally a shot from the back. I know it looks like it's too tight but in all honesty, it isn't. And I don't have any extra fat there, so not sure why those flaps of flesh there.

What do you think? Any glaring or not so glaring fitting issues I haven't identified?
I'd love your opinion!

My Sabrina Dress #3 - The first muslin

I have finished construction of the muslin/ toile for my sabrina dress and surprise, surprise? It's too big on the bodice. I read many times before that vintage patterns run smaller and because this one has my exact bust measurement I was hoping it would fit. But no. Alterations will be needed, especially as I intend to use to dress snug (unlike Audrey Hepburn in the movie, who uses it with a jumper underneath).
A couple of shots from the front. There is to much space on my bust and also on shoulders.

The dress has two pleats running from midriff to bust and the idea is to increase width to make it snugger. With the shoulders and neckline I'm not sure yet. I might just pinch around (like I did for the Crepe) and see what happens. What I will do for sure, is read my copy of Fit for Real People to see what I find that can be of help.
The back has to much ease as well. Pinch excess and remove?

The midriff sits nicely and the skirt as well. It will be longer that here.

What do you think? Any tips on this fitting?

My Sabrina Dress #2-Tracing

So how do you trace a vintage pattern? Depending on its condition, the same way as any other pattern, I would say. There are a multitude of tools and materials you can use to trace a pattern. Some are cheaper than others, some are bespoke to tracing. I think it is a matter of individual preference what you use to trace your patterns. If you are indecisive just try a few and see how it goes. I use greaseproof paper, the same sort you'll find fairly cheap in your supermarket. It is brown, transparent enough to trace without the need of a light underneath the pattern and sellotape sticks well to it. This last point is very important. I am yet to find industrial greaseproof paper in a width larger than 375mm. This means that for most pattern pieces I have to sellotape sheets together. If you know where I can find it, please let me know!  

The Sabrina Dress pattern pieces came out of the envelope just like it shows on the first photo. The pieces are in pretty good condition in comparison with the envelope. I fear that might crumble at any moment.

The next step with any pattern, for that matter, is to iron the pieces before tracing them. We want to make sure the traced piece is an exact (or nearly exact) replica of the original. I started with a low setting on the iron as I wasn't sure how the paper would react.

Next it's important to find a stable surface where you can spread your original pattern and the tracing paper of your choice. Even more important is to make sure you secure both pieces together so they don't shift whilst tracing. There are specific weights you can purchase for this but you can also improvise with heavy objects around you, like a can on beans. Unfortunately I do not have a suitable tracing surface as my desk is too narrow. This makes tracing circle skirts a real juggle. To keep my paper still I use a mix of heavy objects and clamps I use on the desk border. 

I was pleasantly surprised with how different this pattern is from current patterns. It gives a lot more information on the pattern piece itself. I know this is not the case with all vintage patterns. This one, which I remind you is a Simplicity 4808 circa 1954, has seam lines printed in the pattern indicating the 5/8" allowance to use.  It also has notes on how to stitch darts and pleats.

All 9 pieces are ready now for cutting, marking and preparing to start sewing the muslin. And before you go, let me direct you to this link, where the lovely Casey from Elegant Musings shares her tips on tracing a vintage pattern.

Bad photo of part of my sewing space. I like hanging the pattern on the blinds.