Gusset Love/Hate!

I do love gussets, or should I say the way gussets look with a nice and sleek kimono sleeve. They were widely used in the 50s and I have many sewing patterns from that time that use them. That is why I decided to go ahead and sew my kimono sleeve dress as it was with the gusset  (after some trouble fitting I seriously considered altering the bodice pattern to use a set in sleeve). The problem is I cannot sew them! I fully admit, the problem is skill, namely skill at sewing sharp points. I cannot tell you how many times I have fiddled with these gussets. Gertie posted a timely tutorial on how to sew a 2 piece gusset but even with such brilliant help I did not manage. I confess I cried many times in the process, out of frustration of not being able to do this. I am close to giving up!
After more tears this morning I decided to have one more go at it and achieved a half decent half gusset. My concern is the pivot point. I was unable to do it on the machine so hand sewn it. It feels sturdy but I'm not 100% happy with it. Should I persist but risk a somewhat dodgy job which I won't be happy with?

There's three options, as far as I'm concerned:

1. I keep on trying and in that case do you have any tips, tricks or solutions to sew a gusset/ sharp point?
2. I declare it UFO, attend some SOS sewing clinics to work on my gussets and have another go at it next Autumn?
3. Purely and simply ditch it and use the wool flannel with another gorgeous dress pattern (one with easier sleeve insertion). My love for this pattern has dwindled so it wouldn't completely break my heart)

Which option should I choose, my dear readers?

And there was a muslin...again

But this time the muslin is right. I seem to have finally cracked my kimono sleeved bodice fitting nightmare and this version (not my second or third) seems to be right. I obviously will not find out for sure until I sew it up in the fashion fabric. Wool behaves different from calico but I hope it will be a good fit. Excuse my figure in the photos. I have foam curlers in my hair but thought a touch of lipstick would make the photo more presentable.
The bodice was not the issue as it fits right. I was a bit unhappy with the sleeves at the shoulders but they lay flatter on this version. I think on the first photo I was slouching and that's why you see bunching up.

The back had the biggest issues and I'm happy that changes done have sorted that extra fabric at the back.

The pattern pieces after all the changing look horrendous but if final goal of fit is achieved it doesn't really matter. And finally I can abandon the world of muslins for a bit and start cutting into my yummy wool flannel. Wish me luck!!

Winter Wool Dress Muslin - Advice Wanted

Today must be muslin day (toile for my British friends) as the lovely Karen blogged about her coat muslin earlier on. I agree 100% with her on the fact that there is nothing flattering about a muslin. I look hideous! But I know muslins are important to ensure a good fit. How frustrating to spend time and money and end up with a badly fit garment. Just take my Winter wool dress, from the gorgeous pattern above. If I had cut my pricey, gorgeous wool flannel what would I do with it? I wouldn't wear it, for sure.

Anyway...I need help! I need your wonderful advice on how to fit this dress and any comments are very helpful.

The dress fits like a glove from the waist down. The length needs taking by about 10 inches but that's easy. I only pinned it roughly for the photos so ignore that.

Onto the dreaded photos. Straight up with arms down you can see some bagginess in the arms.

Hands on hips the bagginess in the arms becomes clear.

Side view shows some more bagginess in the front and somethings terrible wrong at the back.

Back view. Too much fabric.

So as usual for me, the bodice is way too big, even though the measurements in this vintage pattern are smaller than mine. ( I'm a bust 32 and pattern is for bust 30). The sleeves are kimono with gussets under the arms. Disappointingly (but understandable) my pattern making class was cancelled today due to illness as I believe we were going to do kimono sleeves.

My dear readers, any suggestions, recommendations? What do I take out, where and how. Thank you!!