Saturday 14 January 2012

Gusset Love/Hate!

I do love gussets, or should I say the way gussets look with a nice and sleek kimono sleeve. They were widely used in the 50s and I have many sewing patterns from that time that use them. That is why I decided to go ahead and sew my kimono sleeve dress as it was with the gusset  (after some trouble fitting I seriously considered altering the bodice pattern to use a set in sleeve). The problem is I cannot sew them! I fully admit, the problem is skill, namely skill at sewing sharp points. I cannot tell you how many times I have fiddled with these gussets. Gertie posted a timely tutorial on how to sew a 2 piece gusset but even with such brilliant help I did not manage. I confess I cried many times in the process, out of frustration of not being able to do this. I am close to giving up!
After more tears this morning I decided to have one more go at it and achieved a half decent half gusset. My concern is the pivot point. I was unable to do it on the machine so hand sewn it. It feels sturdy but I'm not 100% happy with it. Should I persist but risk a somewhat dodgy job which I won't be happy with?

There's three options, as far as I'm concerned:

  1. I keep on trying and in that case do you have any tips, tricks or solutions to sew a gusset/ sharp point?
  2. I declare it UFO, attend some SOS sewing clinics to work on my gussets and have another go at it next Autumn?
  3. Purely and simply ditch it and use the wool flannel with another gorgeous dress pattern (one with easier sleeve insertion). My love for this pattern has dwindled so it wouldn't completely break my heart)
Which option should I choose, my dear readers?

14 comments:

  1. For the record I'm a perfectionist and so I totally understand your frustration. I am inclined to ask - does the sharp point affect wearability at all? Also - will anyone really notice it (besides you of course)? It seems a shame to wad such a beautiful project that you've put so much energy into over a relatively minor detail. (Unless I'm misunderstanding and you actually can't get the gusset completed, or it affects the fit?)

    How do you feel about the dress otherwise? Would you be excited to wear it if the gussets were perfect?

    (Myself, I would be just as upset as you and so it's with the blessing of objectivity here that I feel inclined to make sure you're not so focused on this detail as to lose perspective about the dress as a whole :D)

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  2. My suggestion would be to accept the gusset as-is if it's functional. Hey, it's in your armpit ... who will be looking closely there?

    I had this sort of issue with zippers -- I would try and try, but my zippers always looked bad. I decided that so long as the zipper zipped up and down I would consider it a win and not make myself crazy re-doing it. This addressed my frustration problem immediately, but eventually my zipper skills did get better too!

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  3. Don't ditch it! You need time and space. That's either a week or 2 - or till next Autumn, depending on which works best. You can do it. How, I don't know (as I've never tried), but maybe - if you have a local sewing shop where they teach classes - you could get some help with this there. I agree that you have to ask whether anyone will notice the imperfection. Not that you aren't the ultimate arbiter, but it's under your armpit, for freak's sake! :-) You can't do everything expertly the first time and this is a whole new skill. It's bound to be a bit crunchy the first couple of times. Question is: Do you use this as first contact or do you just decide to never make a gusset? Note: I'm pretty well convinced I'm never doing buttons.

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  4. I think your pivot point looks pretty good Suzy! I did a kimono sleeve gusset tutorial a year ago that might help:
    http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/02/kimono-sleeve-gussets.html
    It is for a different gusset, but the same principle is involved at the point. Also, I actually get a neater result if I don't stitch across one stitch at the point, despite what all the sewing books say!

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  5. ms. modiste: Thank you so much for your comment, it really made me think about it. You are right, it doesn't need to be perfect.
    Andrea: Very true, a gusset is functional so I might let go and move ahead with this.
    K.Line: Wise words, as always! I will persist but let go of the need for perfect gusset. And you can believe me when I say that many a times in this process have I thought "I'll never ever again pick a project with gussets involved", lol.
    Sherry: Thank you so much! It looks like a very comprehensive tutorial and I love the big, clear photos. Will have a closer look at it tomorrow and follow it.

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  6. Oohhh, definitely don't scrap this one. Just no reaching for the high shelves when wearing this dress - and even then, who is looking at your armpit??? Personally, I think the gusset looks great and would leave it as is. After wearing it a few times it will shape a little further to your body, and you will forget all about it....

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  7. I'm not one in support of making thus a UFO either Suzy! I've never tried underarm gussets so can only guess ( remembering Karen's frustrations too) how awkward they are. Sounds like you've some specific help and encouragement above, but I'll just say, try to keep with it, and allow yourself a little less perfection. Being more relaxed about it all might help it all fit into place! Good luck :-)

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    Replies
    1. Yes, I think I need to be less of a perfectionist.

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  8. First of all, that point doesn't look bad at all from where I'm standing - so don't give up. I have the same problem with achieving sharp point and have a distinct weakness when it comes to accuracy. I recently made a top with a point join right on the front for the whole world to see. It took me three or four goes. In the end I abandoned all advice and tutorials from blogs and books and came up with my own way. I posted about it http://sewruth.blogspot.com/2011/11/pacos-draped-top.html if you want to have a look. It worked for me. Good luck and stick with it.

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    1. Thank you Ruth. I had a look at your method and quite like it. Have bookmarked your post :)

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  9. I was going to recommend the tutorial that Sherry made, but as she has posted it herself, I say: go look at it -it´s really good! Hope you don´t give up, I love a nice kimono sleeve with gusset, and hope that you´ll be able to finish it and be happy with it! :-)

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    1. Yes, I'll go for it! I might sew half a gusset a week but I will not give up. Thank you.

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  10. I think they are tough and require some practice. But, they really make or break this look and you'll be so happy to master them! Sherry's tutorial is great. The only thing she doesn't mention that I would recommend is a little Fray Check!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you for tip on fray check. I have some and actually never used it. Good time now :)

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