Sin or no Sin

I had planned on having this post ready to go up on Thursday last week but unfortunately managed to strain my subscapularis muscle (big one under the armpit) last weekend meaning my arm has been really sore and painful since. It is slightly better now and I even managed to do 20min of sewing on my Colette Violet muslin. And speaking of that did you notice anything sinful and shocking about the photo?

I know the topic of tracing vs cutting sewing patterns has been exausthead on the internet but I needed to put my thoughts down and document the moment I stopped tracing and started cutting.
Actually it happened a few months ago, but then I decided to only cut patterns from the big companies, like Vogues and McCalls. I would continue to trace Colette Patterns, as they are ultra cute and precious and they have to be preserved... then the above happened! I've cut a Colette Pattern!
All tracers out there might empathise with that moment when you're raring to start a new project and pull the pattern out to trace and decide to do something else/ leave it for later, etc. I'm in there right now, I do not want to spend time tracing. Whilst there is some level of impatience going on here, I feel this does not have an impact on the fitting and sewing of the garment. I still plan on doing a muslin to check fit and take my time ensuring the project is beautifully sewn.

So I'm being very pragmatic about this!

I would trace a pattern to:

• Preserve the original in case I change size (if I change size I probably would change style)
• Preserve the original to sell or donate to someone else (not really a priority)
• Preserve the original to make for someone else (not in my plans)
• Preserve it to make millions in many years time when it's a vintage rarity (Ah! Someone else would make the millions as I will probably be dead).

However, tracing a pattern does not:

• Make me more productive in my sewing
• Ensure I achieve a perfect fit
• Ensure the fabric selection is appropriate
• Ensure it is beautifully sewn and finished.

There we go, so why do it? Makes perfect sense to me, but why do I still feel a bit guilty?

Question Time: Cutting Layouts

Working on  my pattern instructions booklet

Today I want to hear from you: Do you use cutting layouts? Do you like them or find them useful? For what reasons?
I can say ahead of release that the Antoinette Dress Pattern will not have cutting layouts but it doesn't mean future patterns will not.

Curious to see what you think! I will dwell into it more on a follow up post with my opinion and yours.

Tracing and cutting!

I have been doing a lot of tracing and cutting lately!

 This is my first time putting together a printed pattern. This is the one Gertie uses in Craftsy Sew Retro: Bombshell dress online class. I followed her instructions and found little trouble.

I have also cut the calico for the bodice pieces and they are now ready for the sewing machine. I used carbon paper which I always used somehow, but Gertie introduced me to using it to trace directly on fabric, instead of pinning. I quite liked that. When I pin pattern to fabric, and depending on fabric, they tend to shift. Tracing directly might be a better option.
The Bombshell dress is my only project that is not a Autumn/ Winter project. I just love Gertie as a teacher and have been itching to do this since it came out. No way could I wait till next Spring.

I am also venturing on my first Colette Patterns Beignet Skirt. I bought some navy cotton drill and orange lining specifically for this skirt when I was in hungary and I think it's a good choice pattern for Autumn. I traced all the pieces and have cut some calico from fronts and backs for a muslin.

I have two more projects I want to trace and cut muslins before I take anything to the sewing machine. And why you ask, all this bulk tracing and cutting? Well, my new cutting table (which I am madly in love with) is solid wood which is great to hide or fix little imperfections caused by pins, scissors, etc. But being new and being solid wood also means I have to treat it every 2 to 3 days for about two months. That means sanding it lightly and applying some wood oil on it. It then takes at least 24 hrs to dry. So my idea is to do lots of prep work on all my projects and then not worry about which days I can use the table and just get on with sewing. Does that make sense?

My Sabrina Dress #5 - Cutting and Marking

That photo speaks for itself! The width of my fabric wasn't enough so I will end up with a 1950s above the knee length dress. Not ideal, I know! The other thing this meant was that it was quite difficult to match floral prints, like I had originally intended. Not the end of the world.

I cut all my fabric on the floor as I do not have a big enough table. To make up for accurate cuting I usually cut roughly around pattern pieces and end up with a pile like the one below.

 I can then take to my small work desk and accurately cut and mark.

My absolute favourite way of marking fabric is to use carbon paper and a tracing wheel. Here, however, I didn't do that as the fabric right size is on the outside.

 I usually snip all notches. As long as you do it well within your seam allowance there is no problem.

For the darts I used tailor's tacks. Great for marking fabric on both sides without risking permanent pen/ chalk marks. Saying that after I do the tacks and remove the paper pattern, I outline the dart on the wrong side of fabric. That ensures I'm sewing the dart properly.

That was basically all the marking to do on the pattern. I was happy when it was over as I could get on with the fun stuff: sewing it together!