In Construction and Fabric Acquisitions

I am so excited and also relieved to have finally released my first sewing pattern. So what's next? Sewing for myself, of course. I am taking the wonderful The Couture Dress by Susan Khalje from Craftsy and loving how detailed and labourous it is. I'm using a raw silk underlined with silk organza and happy to say it's all from existing stash.

I also started working on the gorgeous pattern below a while ago and all I have to do is hem it. I initially planned on sewing the bolero as well but have since changed my mind. To be honest I don't think I would wear it enough to justify making it...but, I am planning on making the Starlet Suit Jacket from Gertie in black so I think it will be a good substitute (and get more wear).

I don't think I'm alone in being constantly attracted to sewing beautiful dresses but if I'm honest, I hardly wear these dresses. Because they're not suitable for work or more commonly, because it's never hot enough for me to wear them. So, I decided to sew a bunch of separates, specially blouses and shirts. I am starting with Violet from Colette Patterns and currently sewing a muslin to check fit (I know it will be huge on me and also have been warned it's quite boxy). Nevertheless I am making a version without changes to see fit. Using a not so loved floral I have in my stash.

Can you spot what I've done with my beloved Colette Violet pattern? More on that soon.

My stash has also expanded recently but I'm proud to say I have spent very little money and bought fabrics that I do not have on stash (lightweight cottons). It was last weekend, the fantastic Walthamstow fabric bonanza, which many have already written about and provided photographic evidence. It was such a fantastic day, I love meeting up with fellow sewists :)

From the fabric swap, a gorgeous red floral from Kat, a stretch denim from Marie, a lovely checkered green from Camilla and an ultra awesome green houndstooth from Karen.

This is what I purchased (with very, very little money). A very soft but slightly crisp (if that's possible) navy cotton type fabric, more soft cotton type fabric, in my favourite colours (including black which I almost never sew) and some very soft checkered cotton.

But what about Suzy Patterns?
Well, I have already started designing my next pattern but will take my time to make sure lots of improvements happen and the end result is fantastic. If you want to receive more regular small updates you can like my FB page, where I blurb more about it.

Have you bought (or somehow acquired/ earned/ received) any exciting fabric recently?

Fabric Stash

Fabric Stash... and a wonderful combination of words, don't you think? Many have written about their self professed fabric addiction and stash volume so I won't elaborate on those issues. It's really straight forward. I love sewing, hence I love fabric! I just can't see how the two cannot be connected.
My own fabric stash is not humongous, at least compared to others I've seen on the blogosphere but I sort of aim to only have a fabric amount that fits in my sewing cabinet.

It's not full to the brim but late last year (after our car broke down for the 100th time and we decided to buy a new one) I sort of decided to use from my stash. This is not uncommon and many of you may share this view. I am not making a pledge or a resolution because I know the moment it's "official" I'm out there buying fabric. And to be honest, I like feeling free to buy if I want. So far it's working as all the projects I've done in last month or so and the ones I have planned have used or will use stash fabrics. But if I need to buy I'll buy!

I also have lots of scraps and 0.5 mtr pieces that I don't want to throw away but cannot really do much with them. Craftsy announced a free quilting course running throughout the year and I decided to get in there and use only from my scraps stash (with the exception of background fabric which I had to buy). I think it will be a very random quilt, but I would have used most bits I have lying around. And you know what the good thing is about that? Is that once those scraps free some space and my cupboard looks emptier I can splurge on more fabric!

Knitted Fabrics

When I was lusting for warmer clothing that I could sew I considered venturing into knit fabric sewing. And by knit fabric I don't mean jerseys. I mean the thick and warm thing good for jumpers and cardigans. Knitted fabrics! I decided instead to learn how to knit, as I was (still am) keen to replicate knitwear fashions from 40s and 50s. The stuff I found out there wouldn't allow me to do this.
A week or so ago, Ruth from Sewruth posted this comment in one of my posts:
"I knit very slowly and the most basic of patterns so I've been seeking out sweater knits to sew instead - that way I get an original garment that I can make but look like they're knitted. Any sources anyone?"


I sympathise with this and decided to share what sources for knit fabrics I encountered. You would think with winter on it's way, you could find this in abundance but no. Sweater knits are a rarity (or at least I can never find them).


MacCulloch and Wallis have a small selection of sweater knits fabric including this gorgeous Cable Knit. A bit pricy though at £30 per meter (exc.VAT)

They also have some stripy knits a bit more affordable at £17.50 per meter (exc. VAT)

Ditto Fabrics have this gorgeous eyelet lace knitted fabric at &8.99 per meter here. Isn't the colour gorgeous? They also have it in lime.

They also have this more chunky Tweed Knit.

Readers, have you ever worked with knitted fabrics? What's it like? And please, if you know other sources where to buy it please share. Ta!

Wool Flannel Quest Day

What a great Saturday I had! As previously mentioned here, I decided to hit the finest central London fabric shops in search of some wool flannel fabric. I got some of that but my favourite part was meeting up with three fantastic bloggers. Here they are in front of MacCulloch and Wallis:

Left to right we have Justine from Polkadot Pebble, Lauren from Tea and Crumpets and Tors from Girl Meets Wolf.

MacCulloch and Wallis was our first shop and it was also the one where I did all my shopping (more on that further down). Apparently the shop assistants have a bit of a reputation and I was cautioned against using the word muslin or toile. But my experience was very pleasant, staff was courteous and helpful. Maybe I got them on a good day, it was sunny after all! I loved all three floors, there is so much fabrics and haberdashery is easy to get overwhelmed. I had a shopping list with me and it helped. Saying that I might have to go back soon as their bias binding, ribbons and trimmings choice is just amazing. My favourite shop of the day and a must to visit, I think.
After a light lunch we went to Liberty. It was my first time there and what can I say! What a fantastic department store and a cute fabric and habby section! The fabric is gorgeous, most of it a bit too flowery for me (love to look at but would not wear). Interesting discovery for me, is the fact they also sell woollens and jerseys. I always hear about lawns and poplins. Pricey, very pricey!

Justine looking works of art.

We then proceeded to walk the famous Berwick Street! The silk shops where gorgeous and I saw types of fabric I never had before, Some very peculiar stuff too! My favourite there was the Cloth House, one in each end of the street.

The decoration is outstanding and the fabric choice vast. In both shops there are rooms after rooms with fabric displayed beautifully. Prices again are very central London but if you can afford it and you're looking for quality it's a good choice.
It was brilliant having company to rummage through these shops, I didn't really have much of a plan but I think we all enjoyed the day. We ended up in a coffee shop having a good rest and great talk.
Now the whole reason I went to London was to buy my wool flannel and I did buy it, amongst other things.

It doesn't look much but let me tell you, it feels gorgeous. I have to be brave to cut into it now. I have been reading about pre treating and washing and considering a cold hand wash with Eucalan. Anyone else tried this with wool fabrics? Any other recommended method? I also bought some other supplies as I'm starting a patternaking course beginning of October.
Finally I could not resist this lovely book, it's beautiful!

August Book Analysis - Fabric Guide: The Ultimate Fiber Resource

I'm very happy to be reviewing this book by Simplicity. I love it! I was very lucky to have been offered the chance to get a free copy for review and have had it for a couple of months now. This is the fabric guide I didn't have but wanted when I first started sewing. The illustrations and photos are gorgeous and super clear, the text informative and easy to understand and the layout is brilliant. And charts, oh my, what a joy! Also being on a ring binder, always adds points in my book.
The first chapter of the book tells us a little bit about fabric construction. What's a weft and a warp and differences between different weaves. The illustrations make these different weaves easy to understand.
The second chapter introduces us to fibers and explains, like I never read before, where does fiber come from and how it comes to be. For me it is one of the most fascinating chapters to read. Did you know it's possible to make fabric out of camel hair? What about from these cute rabbits? Always wanted to do a burn test on fabric and don't know how? It's in it.
Progressing very nicely on from fibers we have fabric types and here we can find a vast array of fabric types with fairly large and quite clear photos and a small description of its characteristics. One thing I particularly enjoy is that if the fabric has a different name in the UK it will say so(although I confess I'm not sure it does it for all).

Next on there's a fairly small chapter on fabric finishes and trademark fabric, such as Lycra or Teflon. For me, personally, it's the only chapter that doesn't arouse much interest.
Chapter 5 explains us all about linings, underlinings, interfacings and stabilizers. It is so easy to get confused with all these different materials and great to read such a easy to understand guide to them all. Charts (or whatever they are called) like the ones below make it a great reference resource. I'm sure I will be using it frequently.

 Next you get some valuable help and advice on how to work with fabrics, including grain, yardage conversion, cutting layouts and pre-shinking. It also lays out the most common and useful tools to use in sewing. With very nice photos!
Colour is very important so next there's some advice on how to combine colours, what works and what doesn't and the book presents a few colour storyboards. I love the blue one.

The next chapter also gets me quite excited. It's about fabric care. How to wash and remove stains and how to press. Lots of charts here making it very, very easy to find the information wanted when you need it.
The last chapter expands on different threads including how to match to fabric and to needles. Again all in easy to find charts.

This book is lovely and if you like fabric books you have to get this one.

I must say that even though I was sent this book for a review, all I wrote here is my most sincere opinion and I have not gained anything to say it.

Recent Fabric Acquisitions

So what did I buy and what did I swap last Saturday in Brighton? And also important, what do I plan to do with it?
From Ditto Fabrics I got 2 meters of this gorgeous printed cotton. Look at it, it's so gorgeous I am sure I will suffer from anxiety when cutting time comes. My initial idea was to do a shirt or maybe a skirt but still unsure. Suggestions?

For quite some time I have been looking for a light weight camouflage. I found it in Brighton and snapped 4 meters of it. Also unsure of what to do but have some rough ideas. Not prepared to share them yet though.

That was all of my buys but the excitement isn't over as I also swapped some not-really-me fabrics for some I look forward to use.
This gingham is adorable and should be just right for a wiggle type dress. I have already cut the pattern for this.

Next is this ultra soft striped fabric which will hopefully turn itself into a blouse. I have also already cut the pattern pieces for this.

And Zoe snapped this gorgeous anchor tape from the market and shared one meter of each with me. Thank you so much! Several ideas in my head but haven't decided which one to do.

So what do you think of my acquisitions? And what would you do with them?

Brighton Me-Made-June Meetup

I didn't take part of Me-Made-June just because I don't think I have enough me made clothes I could wear to work, however when Zoe announced a meetup to celebrate Me-Made-June in which everyone would be able to attend I couldn't say no. And let me tell you, what a brilliant time I had! I had been itching to meet in real life other sewing bloggers, especially as I was unable to get to the Walthamstow Shopping Frenzy or the Goldhawk Road Fabric Fandango. I met gorgeous and talented sewists and we had a great time together.
Zoe prepared the lovely map underneath to guide us through the day and Claire was kind enough to print enough copies for everyone. We were divided into 2 groups, as most shops are way too small for a large group. And led by Stevie, my group went along.The tour involved 3 fabric shops, including the eye-watering Ditto Fabrics, and a street market, where we lusted after old and used haberdashery. The tour finished at the pub, where food, drink and much merriness was in store.

After much needed food we shared our buys.

And then we had fun swapping fabric!

The bottom right pile is what I swapped for a gorgeous blue gingham, possible destined to be a wiggle type dress, and a oh-so-soft stripy fabric. I also bought some fabric, but I'll share that in another post as this one is already going long.

What a fantastic day, we need to do this more often!

A Week of Giveaways - Day 5

And so we come to the last day of my week of giveaways. I should probably have said it was a 5 day week giveaway but I forgot. I'm sorry if you expected two more days, hopefully todays prize will be worth it.

The photo is not very good but what you have here is 2 meters of grey leopard chiffon fabric (exact contents unknown). I bought this very early in my sewing journey when I was still unaware of different fabrics and how easy or not it is to work with them. Lately I have also been thinking about what patterns and fabrics and textures I like to see on other people and those I like wearing myself. I'm also thinking hard about my own style and what style I want to work towards. Chiffon, aside from possible being a nightmare to sew, is not on my list of preferred fabrics and although I love animal prints, grey is possibly my least favourite. So it's up for grabs.

To enter this giveaway is simple:

1) You have to be a follower on my blog

2) Leave a comment on this post telling me what you would sew with this fabric

3) Very important, leave your email address. I had trouble in the past contacting people because not all profiles allow access to email.

The giveaway is open to my readers all over the world and deadline for entry is Sunday 26th June 2011, 6pm GMT time. Winner will be announced the following day.

Good Luck!!

Sneak Peak

Aware of my week long without posts I'll leave you with two sneak peaks of what I currently have under the sewing machine. 

Colour not very representative. It's more of a mustard yellow!

Quite excited with these and hope to have them finished very soon.

I'll be back tomorrow with my Book of the Month review! This time a pattern making book.

Hungarian Fabric Finds

My fabric buys from Hungarian! No crazy prints or florals, I'm afraid. I had practical in mind and not enough space in suitcase so these might look quite boring for you. I tried taking good detailed photos of these but failed miserable. Apologies for that!

First a gorgeous blue gabardine with a orange lining. I will most probably do  Beignet Skirt with these.

From left to right, a shirting aimed at a future bf shirt. He chose the print but when I got home I noticed that the strips run cross grain so not sure how to pull this one off. What would happen if I cut pattern pieced cross grain when I should do grainline?
The middle one is a gorgeous dark teal in a medium weight cotton. I love the colour and will probably do my Ginger with it. On the right a stretch pale yellow lace. When I saw it I though of making a 2 fabric dress with this as bodice but still need to add more thought to it. All these pieces are between 2 and 3 meters, expect the shirting which is 5 meters.

 I love a good old leopard print and couldn't resist these. The one of the left was the first one I bought. 2 meters of a nice, soft jersey I plan on making a top. The one of left is also a jersey-ish (exact contents unknown) which I love and was so cheap I got 5 meters. I have a few ideas for this one!

 Cheap as peanuts as well, was the wool blend on the left. When I did my Lady Grey I struggled to find cheap wool blends and ended up using gabardine. I bought five meters of this for a future winter jacket. On the right 2 meters of some beautiful lace.

That's all I bought! What do you think? Now that I listed them all it doesn't look that much, I have to say.

My Sabrina Dress #5 - Cutting and Marking

That photo speaks for itself! The width of my fabric wasn't enough so I will end up with a 1950s above the knee length dress. Not ideal, I know! The other thing this meant was that it was quite difficult to match floral prints, like I had originally intended. Not the end of the world.

I cut all my fabric on the floor as I do not have a big enough table. To make up for accurate cuting I usually cut roughly around pattern pieces and end up with a pile like the one below.

 I can then take to my small work desk and accurately cut and mark.

My absolute favourite way of marking fabric is to use carbon paper and a tracing wheel. Here, however, I didn't do that as the fabric right size is on the outside.

 I usually snip all notches. As long as you do it well within your seam allowance there is no problem.

For the darts I used tailor's tacks. Great for marking fabric on both sides without risking permanent pen/ chalk marks. Saying that after I do the tacks and remove the paper pattern, I outline the dart on the wrong side of fabric. That ensures I'm sewing the dart properly.

That was basically all the marking to do on the pattern. I was happy when it was over as I could get on with the fun stuff: sewing it together! 

A very awesome prize

Do you all know the lovely Denise from The Blue Gardenia? If not, head to her blog right now (or after you finish reading this) and make sure you subscribe to it. She writes exquisitely well about her own projects, gorgeous vintage patterns available to buy at her shop and the feature I love the most, she shares the limelight by frequently featuring other amazing sewing enthusiasts in her posts by interviewing them or asking them to share their sewing spaces. Denise also organises some giveaways, which are always jaw dropping and the last one she had was no exception. And guess who came out on the lucky draw? Yes, me! I was over the moon when finding out I had won such amazing prize. So, so many thanks Denise for this lovely combo of prizes.

It will be my first time working with raw silk. In fact, I had never even touched raw silk before, so completely unaware of any special requirements for sewing, pressing, washing (I bet dry- clean only?). As you would have read in my previous post, my sewing list is vast but this will get done too because it's drop dead gorgeous and my size, and I already decided where I am going to wear it.

Like I mentioned before The Blue Gardenia also sells vintage patterns and jewellery and I strongly suggest you take a look at the options. There are so many gorgeous patterns. I myself have not resisted and ordered a 1940s dress for a party I might be going in June (more on that some other time.)