RTW Tailoring Sew Along - Bound Buttonholes

Following my buttonhole nightmare with Vogue 8604 I decide to learn how to do bound buttonholes and use them for my jacket.  I followed Tasia from Sewaholic tutorial and was pleasantly surprised to find out how easy they were. Sherry and Gertie also have brilliant tutorials. In fact it is dead easy when you doing isolated bound buttonholes, but when you need to do five, perfectly lined up the story is completely different.
I thought I had marked the placement lines carefully:

But somehow along the line, I ended up with two different buttonholes, so wonky that the only way to cover would be to get huge buttons. I was frustrated and only managed a lousy photo on my phone to share with my twitter followers.
CarmencitaB came to my rescue (as she always does, thank you!) and shared this link (from a blog that I now follow), which shows more complex bound buttonhole marking techniques. I didn't follow it by the letter but took what I needed which was mark, mark, mark!! I can only hope all those markings will disappear easily. I also basted all buttonhole lips before I started poking holes, to make sure they all aligned.

And the results were much better!

I have attached the outer jacket shell (minus sleeves) and inserted the fake flap pockets. Sherry shared a tutorial for jet pockets and I was determined to try them. But I confess, poking more holes in this jacket made me nervous so I stuck with the fake ones!

It's a Zebra Wrap!

My Colette Zebra Crepe Wrap Dress done as part of Gerties Sew Along is done. I finished it about a week ago but have been waiting for some good(ish) weather to go out and take some photos. That hasn't happen so all you get for now is some indoor photos.

I am very happy with this dress and have Gertie to thank for all the tutorials and support. The final construction steps were not hazard free. I had to do some serious fudging after some pattern pieces not matching others but at the end it all came together nicely. It was all due to changing pattern pieces during the fitting stage so need to take extra care in future to make sure everything matches everywhere.
Gertie used french seams and bias binding but I decided against it as my fabric is a medium weight cotton. With the batiste as underlining, french seams would make it too bulky. I opted by pressing seams open and overlocking (with a overlocker foot). With the waist seam I also pressed it open and hand sewn some seam binding. I'll leave you with a shot from the inside. I think it's the first inside I really like (even though I can't seam to press the batiste properly).

Trousers Sewalong: Conquered

I am over the moon for having finished my trousers as part of The Cupcake Goddess Trousers Sewalong. The sew along is still ongoing but as I was working on a different pattern I decided to crack on and finish them off.

They are super wide which, with this pattern, doesn't look too bad. They are also very hight waisted, which was one the main reasons I picked this pattern. I spent yesterday hemming and opted by mid high suitable length. By the way, don't you find annoying that you always have to choose beforehand, if you going to wear high heels or flats with your trousers?

The corduroy I used (purchased from the great The Fabric Loft) is very soft so bulk wasn't an issue for most of the part. The only part where it gets a bit bulky is where the waistband (with facing) meets the pocket and the outer fabric. Using my newly found and already much loved overlocker foot I treated all my seams that way. It takes a whole lot of thread but it looks so pretty.
I mentioned in my fitting post I wasn't 100% happy with the zipper length but because the trousers are quite snug waist wise and high, I couldn't put a shorter one. I don't have a photo os my back but it doesn't look as bad as I thought it would.

I really really love this trousers and will definitely do a summer pair, with a few alterations:

• I like them wide but for the next pair I will try to remove some of the wideness. Not much though, as I do believe this style suits wide legs.
• I am quite petite so will probably cut one inch off top/ waistband
• I have already cut the smaller size for these but will try and reduce that for my next pair. These are great winter trousers and fit perfectly with a jumper tucked inside. But if I'm to wear a thin summer blouse, they are not so snug.  

Trousers Sewalong: The first muslin

I have completed the first muslin from the Vogue 8604 Trousers I'm making for the Sewalong hosted by The Cupcake Goddess. I am really liking the shape of these trousers and have identified a few fitting issues and potential alterations to make. I am very new to fitting so I welcome any feedback, comments, opinions from you all!

Front view

Side View

Back View

Issues identified (trying not too sound too rude):

• I have thin legs so the back is quite full and straight. According to my recent book purchase, Pants for Real People, I might need to take in the back inseam to add more shape to it.
• The crotch length my be too big. It's about 2" longer than me (if that makes sense). However, it doesn't feel odd or uncomfortable and possibly when I take back inseams it might change.
• The trousers are too long but that is something that I am used too as I am short.
• The pattern asks for a regular zip but I am contemplating an invisible one, as it will look much nicer. Either that or I will put a shorter zip. I don't like how the bottom of the zip goes ...err...on my bottom and would probably get away with a smaller one.

What do you think? I'll be posting this photos to the flickr group to get further feedback and also appreciate your comments, fitting related or not!

Crepe Sew Along - Second bodice muslin

I slowly worked my way through the fitting of the bodice this past week. And comparing to my first muslin this one if much improved. Although I'm not yet sure it's good enough. Opinions welcome!

• I took in 3/4" at the side seams
• I tucked and removed 1/2" across the front and back of bodice (just above darts)
• I moved bust dart down (but stupidly did this before I took side seams and ended up with shorter dart)
• I added width to the upper part of the waist dart to address the extra fabric just under the bust.
• I took 3/8" from shoulder seams

There still seams to be a bit of extra fabric under the bust and at the side and depending on how my arms are positioned it crinkles up in that area. That might be resolved with adding length to bust dart. For muslin 3 should I also add a bit more width to upper part of waist dart?

I think the bagginess you see here is just because I didn't tuck the inner part well. (at least I hope so). As I took in side seams should I move darts in ? Might be a "duh" question but not sure.

If you have any idea or suggestions I am, as always, happy to hear it!

Crepe Sew Along - fabric and measurements

So what do you think of my fabric choices for Gertie's Crepe Sew Along? I was split between two but the zebra pattern with red belt won the day. It will go super well with my gorgeous red shoes!

The sew along is due to kick-off next week and quite looking forward to it. I had so much fun sewing along with my Lady Grey, not to mention everything I learned. With the crepe sew along I'm particulary looking forward to learn how to fit a bodice properly (on dresses I've done so far they are always a bit too big) and on using organza to stay a neckline.

So this week I'll be tracing off the pattern. I got used to doing this and now cringe at the thought of cutting the pattern directly. To be honest it's annoying sometimes and I might need to learn how to "let go" of a uncut pattern.

Size chart and my own measurements don't match quite well:

Bust: 32 inc

Waist: 27 inc

Hip 34.5 inc

My waist is the culprit ;)

Because this is a dress I think size 0 will be the best option. What do you think?

A new Sew-Along

So Gertie announced a new Sew-Along, this time aimed at beginners using the Colette Crepe wrap dress pattern. When I initially read about it I decided not to take part for a number of different reasons:

a) The dress is very cute but I'm not mad about it.

b) I really do not wear dresses that often. 

c) For the times I want to wear a dress I usually end up being cold. Having grown up in a place where summer is equivalent to 30 Celsius plus, the average British summer of 20 to 25 Celsius doesn't feel hot  enough. (I know there where some very hot days this year). 

d) I also thought that having done the Lady Grey, which is more advanced, a beginner sew along would be silly. Very stupid thought, I know, but I did have it for a few minutes.

However, and coming to the point of this post, I have changed my mind and decided to join the sew along because I'm really a beginner and could use with constructing a more simple garment with the right techniques and support from start. I've done a couple of dresses already but even though they are totally wearable they're not exactly perfect.

So my next step was to fret about the fabric. I decided to use a existing stash fabric but changed my mind after as I  have it saved for a very specific project. I decided against cotton lawn as I want to be able to use the dress in spring with some tights, however I'm undecided on two fabrics. I actually spent most of last evening thinking this out and took ages to fall asleep.

I ordered the pattern from Sewbox who also has some gorgeous cotton lawn available, if you inclined that way.