My Sabrina Dress #6 - Bodice construction

I have made lots of progress on My Sabrina Dress and spent much time and attention getting the bodice right. The front piece has soft pleats which were quite straightforward to sew. I just pinned them down and pressed the lower end to help when taking it to the machine.

 The back is darted and I used my favourite method to do them. Start at the raw edge and when close to tip reduce stitch length. Don't back sew to avoid puckering. When you reach the end raise the presser foot, move the fabric so the needle goes inside the dart and the back sew. You can see a proper explanation of these here. I learned this awesome method through Gertie's Blog For Better Sewing when sewing along the Crepe Wrap Dress.

 I decided to follow pattern instructions and use bias binding to finish facing raw edges. I went for a soft pink just because it doesn't show on the outside. I really do not like wearing a lot of pink. I started by opening the binding and pinning to the edges of the fabric...but...I didn't take in account cloth allowance so the binding didn't wrap around the seam nice and smoothly.

The end result is a bit shoddy, as you can see from photo below but I overlooked it as the front of the facing isn't as bad. (You'll see a inside shot when dress is finished).

When the time came to attach the binding to the armhole facing I took in consideration the cloth allowance and the results are much, much better. I do need to practice sewing bias binding. With my underbust corset the bias is also very poorly sewn.

And voila, the bodice is completed! The end is near and I suspect I will have a whole dress to show you by next weekend. Before that I'll post about waist seams and seam finishes!

My Sewing List

I have been procrastinating lately and have done very little sewing. My latest buttonhole nightmare plus failed attempts at transfering pattern alterations on My Sabrina Dress (simple maths but I'm crap at it) have send me into a idle state. I have however, managed to buy a few more patterns and add a few more projects to my to sew list. To hopefully keep me on track and sewing, I'll share what's coming with you, more or less in the order I intend to do them.

My Sabrina Dress: I have figured out the fitting alteration I need doing, helped by Alexandra comment (thank you!) and now in process of transfering to pattern pieces. I'm hoping to get this cracked soon. I love the fabric but still unsure how it will look.

I love sew alongs! They help me keep focused and force me to stop and wait for further instructions or advice, before I go and cock up something. Sherry from Pattern~Scissors~Cloth is leading a Tailoring Sew along and I initially shied away from it, as I had to many projects on the go. But after buying some gabardine fabric for trousers and realising the fabric is too heavy for that, I decided to join in. I had to choose a pattern that asked for less than 2mtrs, and quite liked the red illustration from McCalls below (not keen on the photo version). It doesn't have many elements from a tailored jacket, but I'm sure I'll pick up good tips and advice. Need to whip up muslin and fitting issues soon.

Next on the list another vintage pattern, this time for a wrap shirt. I will be using a lovely lightweight cotton I bought months ago. In an effort to wear more skirts, I will also do a basic skirt in this fabric. I LOVE this fabric!

Summer version of my Vogue 8604 Trousers. Hopefully in this blue linen blend with some pattern alterations.

And again, another original vintage pattern, this time for night wear. I will do a first version in the cute cotton poplin on the left, which is a left over from a baby coat and all going well I will do a second version in this satin(ish) fabric with some lace inserts. Probably not followed as it would be too boring.

I need more work shirts so will have another go at shirts with another Very EasyVogue in a lovely red cotton.

Disclaimer: The information printed here is correct at time of publishing. The writer holds right to change any project fabric or pattern, or add/ remove more projects to the list. ;)

In Construction:Kimono Sleeved Jacket

I am half way doing the kimono sleeved jacket from Vogue 8604 and this is what is looks so far:

I'm using the left over from the black corduroy fabric I used for my Winter Dress. The jacket has 6 buttons at the front (which I confess I'm not looking forward to sew) and is fully lined. The shell was pretty quick to assemble and I could have finished it last night, but I paced myself so as to distribute the different tasks between my different projects. The last thing I want is again having nothing to sew but 4 patterns to trace. I will probably have it finished by the weekend so will share the finished thing then.

This jacket and the next 4 or 5 projects I have going under the sewing machine are all part of my plan to use my existing pattern, fabric and habby stash. Not to say I won't buy anything new but I do want to get rid of some existing fabric remnants, etc.

Tonight I will trace!

My Sabrina Dress #3 - The first muslin

I have finished construction of the muslin/ toile for my sabrina dress and surprise, surprise? It's too big on the bodice. I read many times before that vintage patterns run smaller and because this one has my exact bust measurement I was hoping it would fit. But no. Alterations will be needed, especially as I intend to use to dress snug (unlike Audrey Hepburn in the movie, who uses it with a jumper underneath).
A couple of shots from the front. There is to much space on my bust and also on shoulders.

The dress has two pleats running from midriff to bust and the idea is to increase width to make it snugger. With the shoulders and neckline I'm not sure yet. I might just pinch around (like I did for the Crepe) and see what happens. What I will do for sure, is read my copy of Fit for Real People to see what I find that can be of help.
The back has to much ease as well. Pinch excess and remove?

The midriff sits nicely and the skirt as well. It will be longer that here.

What do you think? Any tips on this fitting?

My Sabrina Dress #2-Tracing

So how do you trace a vintage pattern? Depending on its condition, the same way as any other pattern, I would say. There are a multitude of tools and materials you can use to trace a pattern. Some are cheaper than others, some are bespoke to tracing. I think it is a matter of individual preference what you use to trace your patterns. If you are indecisive just try a few and see how it goes. I use greaseproof paper, the same sort you'll find fairly cheap in your supermarket. It is brown, transparent enough to trace without the need of a light underneath the pattern and sellotape sticks well to it. This last point is very important. I am yet to find industrial greaseproof paper in a width larger than 375mm. This means that for most pattern pieces I have to sellotape sheets together. If you know where I can find it, please let me know!  

The Sabrina Dress pattern pieces came out of the envelope just like it shows on the first photo. The pieces are in pretty good condition in comparison with the envelope. I fear that might crumble at any moment.

The next step with any pattern, for that matter, is to iron the pieces before tracing them. We want to make sure the traced piece is an exact (or nearly exact) replica of the original. I started with a low setting on the iron as I wasn't sure how the paper would react.

Next it's important to find a stable surface where you can spread your original pattern and the tracing paper of your choice. Even more important is to make sure you secure both pieces together so they don't shift whilst tracing. There are specific weights you can purchase for this but you can also improvise with heavy objects around you, like a can on beans. Unfortunately I do not have a suitable tracing surface as my desk is too narrow. This makes tracing circle skirts a real juggle. To keep my paper still I use a mix of heavy objects and clamps I use on the desk border. 

I was pleasantly surprised with how different this pattern is from current patterns. It gives a lot more information on the pattern piece itself. I know this is not the case with all vintage patterns. This one, which I remind you is a Simplicity 4808 circa 1954, has seam lines printed in the pattern indicating the 5/8" allowance to use.  It also has notes on how to stitch darts and pleats.

All 9 pieces are ready now for cutting, marking and preparing to start sewing the muslin. And before you go, let me direct you to this link, where the lovely Casey from Elegant Musings shares her tips on tracing a vintage pattern.

Bad photo of part of my sewing space. I like hanging the pattern on the blinds.

My Sabrina Dress

I am about to start work on what I am already calling My Sabrina dress. Simply because it is a Sabrina dress...

Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina...featuring a Sabrina dress!
Have you ever watched this movie?

I will be using Simplicity 4808, dated 1954 on Vintage patterns Wiki. That's right, I will be making my first ever original vintage dress. Not a reproduction, not a inspired pattern, the real deal. How nerve wrecking and exciting at the same time!

"Junior Misses' Jumper with Two Skirts: "Simple to make" jumper may have a slim or full, gored skirt. Empire bodice has soft pleats at bustline and joins a midriff. A low, rounded neckline is featured. View 1 is outlines with top stitching at neck, armhole and midriff. View 2 shaped tab at center front neck edge is trimmed with buttons. Slim skirts has a pleat at lower edge of center back and soft pleats at front waistline."

After some of you expressed an interest on my twitter account, I have decided to make an indepth coverage of the making of this dress so look out for a lot of posts on tracing a vintage muslin, decipher it's instructions, make a muslin/toile (oh yes, muslin/toile is needed), cutting fabric, sewing final fabric, etc, etc, etc. I also think it will be interesting for those wishing to work with vintage patterns to read about my own experiences working for the first time with one. It might also help me, in getting tips and hints from more experienced vintage seamstress.
I do have a deadline for this dress but a very comfortable one so will take it easy and slowly. And of course, I will have a few sideline projects, as usual!

So next on My Sabrina Dress...Tracing a Vintage Pattern

Double Knit Dress - New Project

As if I don't have much sewing related activities going on I'm starting a new project this weekend. This time a double knit dress which I will hopefully finish in time to wear this winter. The pattern is Vogue 8413 and I'll be using a lovely turquoise double knit.

I first started thinking about double knits when I read Gertie's post on a quick dress she had put together at the time of the Lady Grey Sewalong. In fact she made another one shortly after. Afterwards I saw Mrs Exeter had also embarked on a double knit adventure with a gorgeous red number.

The dress idea came back after seeing some gorgeous double knit on sale at an online fabric shop. I decided there and then to do something and ordered about 3 metres. There were many colour options but I quite liked the turquoise and it's a colour I do not have in my wardrobe. After that I hunted for a pattern that asked for double knits and this was the only I found that had some long sleeve versions. I will probably do view D or E.  You can see an example of view D here. (I couldn't find a blog for this talented lady).

If you have sewn with double knits and have some advice or tips I'll be more than happy to hear about them.

Basting, Cutting and half a Corset

I decided to go ahead with my Crepe muslin number 2 as my final one, as Gertie mentioned in flickr that it looks good. I still had some doubts but I think when you're in a frame of mind to find faults you'll find them everywhere. So I've been slowly cutting my underlining pieces and basting to main fabric. I haven't finished yet, it takes ages. I should be done by the time Gertie comes back from holidays and presents us the next stage.

I have also been cutting my muslin for the Trousers Sewalong in preparation for its start in January. A mix of excitement and anxiety felt as I'm still a bit traumatised by my previous trousers drama.

As Christmas is a 4 day break this year I found myself with plenty of time to sew and a bit annoyed that all I had to do was trace and cut and baste. So I decided to put together an underbust corset. Purchased as a kit by Sew Curvy Corsetry this is my second attempt at a corset and so far is going very well. As you see from the photo below, I even made a muslin to check fit.

It was going so well I really believed I would finish it quickly but time to insert the eyelets at the back came and all went downhill. I started by inserting the first eyelet the wrong way round but then corrected it. After I corrected it I had a moment of dumbness and was using the eyelet tool wrong. After my bf came to the rescue I continued seemingly victorious to figure out at the end that all the eyelets were, like the first one, the wrong way round. Not a sewing moment I am proud off. I had to put it away and I ran out of usable eyelets. Below is what I achieved so far. Doesn't look very flattering on my dummy but I'm hoping for at least a 2 inch reduction in my waist.

Crepe Sew Along - Second bodice muslin

I slowly worked my way through the fitting of the bodice this past week. And comparing to my first muslin this one if much improved. Although I'm not yet sure it's good enough. Opinions welcome!

• I took in 3/4" at the side seams
• I tucked and removed 1/2" across the front and back of bodice (just above darts)
• I moved bust dart down (but stupidly did this before I took side seams and ended up with shorter dart)
• I added width to the upper part of the waist dart to address the extra fabric just under the bust.
• I took 3/8" from shoulder seams

There still seams to be a bit of extra fabric under the bust and at the side and depending on how my arms are positioned it crinkles up in that area. That might be resolved with adding length to bust dart. For muslin 3 should I also add a bit more width to upper part of waist dart?

I think the bagginess you see here is just because I didn't tuck the inner part well. (at least I hope so). As I took in side seams should I move darts in ? Might be a "duh" question but not sure.

If you have any idea or suggestions I am, as always, happy to hear it!

Crepe Sew Along - First bodice muslin

Very excited to have started my Crepe Wrap Dress. I was unsure of what size to cut but after some valuable advice I decided by a US size 0. This is one of the parts of the sew along I'm most looking forward to as I have never learned how to fit a bodice properly. The dresses I've done so far are all wearable but they also are a bit spacious in the bust area. Especially vintage inspired patterns tend to to be drafted to those with generous busts. Mine is a long way from generous, it's simply small!
So am I happy with a straight from pattern fit? I'm not sure.

A view from front. With my arm open the fit seems fine.

However with my arms relaxed there seems to be surplus fabric in bust area and shoulders.

A side close up vie show the darts and the shoulder better. The bust dart ends a bit above my bust point (do they call it apex or am I making it up?). It also shows a bit of extra space leading from waist dart. Maybe it's the style but at this point I'm not sure.

A back view show on shoulder a bit sloppy but maybe it's because it's not tied around the waist the way the finished dress will. Again not sure.

My own conclusions are that the bodice is a bit spacious in bust and could be adjusted and the shoulders could use with a few adjustments as well. But I just don't know. I've never gave fitting much of a thought so find it difficult to know what's right and what's wrong (some things are obvious, I know).
I'm going to be uploading these images to the Crepe Sew Along Flickr Pool and hope someone can help me with fitting. I think Gertie will shows us her muslin this weekend so hopefully there's something there as well to help me. And your comments are more than welcome as well!

Talking about fitting made me look around for a good book and Fit For Real People has very good reviews. Any of you familiar with this book?

A new Sew-Along

So Gertie announced a new Sew-Along, this time aimed at beginners using the Colette Crepe wrap dress pattern. When I initially read about it I decided not to take part for a number of different reasons:

a) The dress is very cute but I'm not mad about it.

b) I really do not wear dresses that often. 

c) For the times I want to wear a dress I usually end up being cold. Having grown up in a place where summer is equivalent to 30 Celsius plus, the average British summer of 20 to 25 Celsius doesn't feel hot  enough. (I know there where some very hot days this year). 

d) I also thought that having done the Lady Grey, which is more advanced, a beginner sew along would be silly. Very stupid thought, I know, but I did have it for a few minutes.

However, and coming to the point of this post, I have changed my mind and decided to join the sew along because I'm really a beginner and could use with constructing a more simple garment with the right techniques and support from start. I've done a couple of dresses already but even though they are totally wearable they're not exactly perfect.

So my next step was to fret about the fabric. I decided to use a existing stash fabric but changed my mind after as I  have it saved for a very specific project. I decided against cotton lawn as I want to be able to use the dress in spring with some tights, however I'm undecided on two fabrics. I actually spent most of last evening thinking this out and took ages to fall asleep.

I ordered the pattern from Sewbox who also has some gorgeous cotton lawn available, if you inclined that way.