Construction Over - Vogue 8413 Double Knit Dress

I was on a roll yesterday and as a result finished the Vogue 8413 pattern in a gorgeous double knit turquoise. I actually finished it this morning as last night I had no energy for hand hemming. I had a bit of a hard time getting the photos to show the true colour but in these it's very close.
The fabric is lush! It feels so comfortable and warm against the skin making it perfect for winter. It's also crease resistant, which is always a bonus. I have some train holidays booked for later this winter so this will be a perfect travel dress.

Good construction points includes the fabric itself. It doesn't ravel at all which is brilliant. I used a universal needle as I don't have any ball points and found it not to be a problem. I understand the latter is better so will stock some for the next time. 

I decided not to make a muslin/ toile as it would be a bit silly to use a non-stretch fabric to test a stretch fabric. I also deviated from the pattern instructions asking for a 22" zipper. I estimated the knit to have enough stretch to not put a zip at all. And it worked, as you can see from the photo below. (Apologies for the strange photo. I swear it's my back. I think the back collar makes it look like it's backwards.)

The fit was interesting. I've cut the size 8 and it's definitely a tad big on me. After constructing the bodice I decided to take in 1/4" from side seams. That made it better (not perfect). The skirt includes darts at back and pleats at front but was way to large on me. I took a good 2" off side seams and fits much better (again, not perfect). I also shortened the length. 

Other issues that made me sweat was marking the pleats in fabric. Nothing (other than good old thread) seems to stay! Pressing seams open was also difficult especially because of the amount of bulk i.e. neckline.

I'll probably make this dress again (or a different view from same pattern) but will aim for a snugger fit.

Trousers Sewalong: The first muslin

I have completed the first muslin from the Vogue 8604 Trousers I'm making for the Sewalong hosted by The Cupcake Goddess. I am really liking the shape of these trousers and have identified a few fitting issues and potential alterations to make. I am very new to fitting so I welcome any feedback, comments, opinions from you all!

Front view

Side View

Back View

Issues identified (trying not too sound too rude):

• I have thin legs so the back is quite full and straight. According to my recent book purchase, Pants for Real People, I might need to take in the back inseam to add more shape to it.
• The crotch length my be too big. It's about 2" longer than me (if that makes sense). However, it doesn't feel odd or uncomfortable and possibly when I take back inseams it might change.
• The trousers are too long but that is something that I am used too as I am short.
• The pattern asks for a regular zip but I am contemplating an invisible one, as it will look much nicer. Either that or I will put a shorter zip. I don't like how the bottom of the zip goes ...err...on my bottom and would probably get away with a smaller one.

What do you think? I'll be posting this photos to the flickr group to get further feedback and also appreciate your comments, fitting related or not!

Double Knit Dress - New Project

As if I don't have much sewing related activities going on I'm starting a new project this weekend. This time a double knit dress which I will hopefully finish in time to wear this winter. The pattern is Vogue 8413 and I'll be using a lovely turquoise double knit.

I first started thinking about double knits when I read Gertie's post on a quick dress she had put together at the time of the Lady Grey Sewalong. In fact she made another one shortly after. Afterwards I saw Mrs Exeter had also embarked on a double knit adventure with a gorgeous red number.

The dress idea came back after seeing some gorgeous double knit on sale at an online fabric shop. I decided there and then to do something and ordered about 3 metres. There were many colour options but I quite liked the turquoise and it's a colour I do not have in my wardrobe. After that I hunted for a pattern that asked for double knits and this was the only I found that had some long sleeve versions. I will probably do view D or E.  You can see an example of view D here. (I couldn't find a blog for this talented lady).

If you have sewn with double knits and have some advice or tips I'll be more than happy to hear about them.

In the Park

Not many words today, just some photos taken last weekend from a walk in the park.

Photos by my lovely BF
Dress handmade by me
Corset underneath dress handmade by me
Faux fur bolero/capelet charity shop find
My gorgeous sewing shoes by Irregular Choices

Underbust Corset

After a big struggle with these:

Sewing many of these:

And a bigger struggle with these (being cut by my BF):

I have finished the underbust corset and managed a waist reduction of 2 inches:

Photo by my lovely BF. Editing by me. Kimono bought.

I am quite happy with this corset and wore it today underneath my corduroy winter dress for a walk by the lake. Photos were taken and I will share them with you in the next couple of days.
Regarding the construction of the corset the major fault is the bias binding at the top and bottom. In all honesty, it's a mess! I struggled big time to sew it on a straight line, on the edge so close to the bones. It doesn't look pretty at all but I'm so happy with the rest of the corset I can forgive myself.

Photo by my lovely BF. Editing by me. Kimono bought.

I loved sewing it and wearing it and have big thanks to say to Julia from Sew Curvy Corsetry for selling these wonderful corset kits, for the amazing tutorials on the website and the advice given. I'm sure my next corset will be even better!

Edit: I just realised my contrast/ brightness settings are not what they should be and you might be seeing the above images very dark with hardly any details in the blacks. It is not intended that way and I'm trying to figure out the problem. 

Basting, Cutting and half a Corset

I decided to go ahead with my Crepe muslin number 2 as my final one, as Gertie mentioned in flickr that it looks good. I still had some doubts but I think when you're in a frame of mind to find faults you'll find them everywhere. So I've been slowly cutting my underlining pieces and basting to main fabric. I haven't finished yet, it takes ages. I should be done by the time Gertie comes back from holidays and presents us the next stage.

I have also been cutting my muslin for the Trousers Sewalong in preparation for its start in January. A mix of excitement and anxiety felt as I'm still a bit traumatised by my previous trousers drama.

As Christmas is a 4 day break this year I found myself with plenty of time to sew and a bit annoyed that all I had to do was trace and cut and baste. So I decided to put together an underbust corset. Purchased as a kit by Sew Curvy Corsetry this is my second attempt at a corset and so far is going very well. As you see from the photo below, I even made a muslin to check fit.

It was going so well I really believed I would finish it quickly but time to insert the eyelets at the back came and all went downhill. I started by inserting the first eyelet the wrong way round but then corrected it. After I corrected it I had a moment of dumbness and was using the eyelet tool wrong. After my bf came to the rescue I continued seemingly victorious to figure out at the end that all the eyelets were, like the first one, the wrong way round. Not a sewing moment I am proud off. I had to put it away and I ran out of usable eyelets. Below is what I achieved so far. Doesn't look very flattering on my dummy but I'm hoping for at least a 2 inch reduction in my waist.

Vintage Patterns

So far I have steered away from vintage patterns not because I don't like them but because I'm a bit scared to attempt making them. I still feel I need to build my dressmaking and fitting skills before I tackle an original vintage. However I have taken the first step towards sewing a vintage pattern and that is buying some. These were all found in a recent rummage through local antique and charity shops.
Without further ado here they are:

I googled Weldons sewing patterns as I wanted to find out more about these but found nothing. Are you familiar with Weldons? It looks like a 40s pattern but I can't be sure.

Style Patterns was another that I googled and found nothing. This also looks like 40s to me.

Next a mix of Vogue, Butterick and McCall for women and children. No idea what year again. Any ideas?

I also bought some 70s patterns. I like the dress in the middle below and the following pattern came as a bonus.

Finally a Simplicity skirt pattern from 60s, 70s?

Let me know what you think of my purchases and if you know anything about these or know where I could find more information about them please let me know.